Arashiyama - updated

Note: you can click on the photos for larger version.  (I continue to loathe this technology and when I have time, I'll see if I find wordpress any more intuitive for decent layout.)

I am reading Ruth Ozeki's A tale for the time being on my new Kindle (technology I do enjoy for travel). It's a great book to read in Japan. She has a bit to say about time - how now is so transient and immediately after becomes then. Feels particularly relevant when trying to blog. My visit to the subject of this blog (Arashiyama) seems aeons ago now but it is only just over a week.It is quite a large area famous for temples, shrines, bamboo, and climbing to get views.

I start each day with a trip through the railway station. I am beginning to get lost less. Always hordes of people and noise - announcements, hubbub etc.

After quite a long but quiet journey,the bus stopped at Arishiyama, famous for temples, bamboo, shrines and climbs to spectacular views.  (I wasn't planning on doing too much of that!)
First stop was Tenji Temple.


 

   

The bamboo walk to the  Jibutsu-do Villa didn't disappoint.  

 

 

A sign explained, "The Villa’s entire history originated here at “Jibutsu-do” shrine. Oh-kohchi Denjiro was already a box-office movie star at the age of 34 (1931). His long-cherished dream of building this shrine, since he was 27 when he experienced the calamitous earthquake of Tokyo in 1923, eventually came true. During working at the studios, he often visited this humble shrine and found inspiration through meditation and prayers.  His inspiration eventually led to the completion of the “Tekisui-an” tea room and “Daijo-kaku” Temple. His creativity ranged from the artistic creation of movies to the planning and building of Japanese gardens.  It never ceased until he passed away in 1962 at the age of 64."  

I was really blown away by the stonework here and - in fact - everywhere I went.



The views and planting were a joy.

  



 





 And the tea house was a serene place to have a rest. .







After that, one was meant to go on a two-hour walk for fabulous views.  Fortunately the walk proved difficult to find.  I came across some friendly young men who were also trying to find the way. Signs kept saying something like "Do not walk" and they were as confused as me but headed on undeterred. "We're Dutch!" they explained, giggling.

This way?

The website mentioned a cemetery...

Ah this will do...

Ring bell, clap hands..

 

make a wish/say a prayer?

All templed out, I headed for home and found out what they meant by the bamboo forest.  It felt a deep forest, with  lots of junctions and I wish I'd taken a photo of one of the frequent signposts because I couldn't  make head nor tail of them and got lost but not panicky as there were lots of tourists.  (Many Japanese seem to enjoy dressing in national costume, hiring ricksaws etc for a really special day out.)

 I was hoping to find the railway station with a public footbath but got hopelessly lost.  Eventually an English fellow rescued me with his ipad and google maps.  (It inspired me to try to get my wifi router working and I've succeeded - if I  remove and reinsert the battery every time I want to use it!)

Practicalities

Thought I'd put all the practicalities in one place in case I want to refer back.

Catching a bus

The  hop-on hop off bus to orientate myself only runs on weekends but  organisation at the bus station was another example of Japanese efficiency and consideration.  It seems that in Kyoto at least, the Japanese recognise the value of a real person and don't skimp on manpower.  (Yay!!!)  Not only does the bus timetable screen include information in English (and Japanese) on what buses to catch for the main tourist attractions and where to catch them, there are  also English speaking attendants to make sure you understand. I hadn't worked out which sight/site to visit, but I bought a day's bus pass (500 yen - or about$5.50) and headed off towards Kinkaku-ju Temple. The bus signage was clear so  I followed others on via the back door and scored a seat, which was great as it got very crowded.  Announcements in Japanese and English tell you about the bus and the next stop and the information's also on a screen at the front. When you're getting close, they tell you where you are.  It was great looking out the window and watching the world go by. 

On the shinkansen

When I first arrived, the helpful JR pass lady reserved my seats from Narita to Kyoto.  I changed at Shinagawa which was much less stressful than Tokyo but was very glad she'd done the reservation as half the carriages went to Shinagawa after Tokyo and the half went somewhere else. So I like to reserve my seat through someone who knows what they're doing.  

On entering and exiting, the train conductor and the refreshments trolley lady face the carriage gravely for a moment, before bowing solemnly.

For  the Shinkansen trains, the number of each car is clearly marked along the platform.  The train draws up and you step on and find your reserved seat.  The fast trains spend lots of time in tunnels.

Announcements about what’s coming up, which side you get off etc are made in Japanese and English over the tannoy.  Signs on the back of the seat in front of you tell you where the nearest toilets and rubbish bins are... and where you can find the smoking rooms!  

Smoking

Smoking is not allowed everywhere but smokers are accommodated.  How civilised.  Some restaurants still have ashtrays on every table and there are smoking rooms all over the place.  

Toilets

There seem to be lots of public toilets in Kyoto, usually traditional squat affairs and there appear to be urinals for women! I haven't tried one yet.

Have only gone to one toilet that wasn't beautifully clean with toilet paper, and  handy flush.  (Some public toilets charge 100 yen for a sheet of toilet paper. Fortunately I carry tissues.) 

The toilets in all the hotels and more up-market public toilets are sheer luxury! Even in the tiniest toilets, room is made for bidet, shower, seat warmer and controls.  Your bottom never felt cleaner. As it's summer, I prefer not to use the seat-warmer. 

 

Schoolchildren

There seem to be hordes of schoolchildren wherever you go.  I like the way they keep track of the little ones. 

Umbrellas

On a wet day, when you go inside (eg in the Mall and hotels) plastic umbrella holder dispensers appear at the entrance so your brolly does not drip dangerously. The hotels also put out racks of brollies for you to borrow.

The old and infirm

There are seats for the aged, infirm or pregnant on the buses, though they (we!) do not seem to be as well respected as in Seoul.   The only people I saw who needed support to walk, used walking frames that are more like pushchairs or mini shopping buggies with arms.  You’d need to be pint-sized to fit on the seat.  Have only seen people pushing them by the arms, generally bent over.  What a difference to the giant (wide) wheelchairs that were common at Auckland Hospital.  Says something about obesity in the two countries.  God help a sumi wrestler who needed one.

A quiet Tuesday in Kyoto

The weather is somewhat inclement today, but I'm not complaining about a bit of rain as it is the tail end of Typhoon Noul which killed two people in the Philippines. I met up with a colleague who now works in Japan and we had lunch and explored a mall and the railway station (getting to feel a little less overwhelming).  I also decided to cancel a side trip to the mountains as I'd have needed to travel for six and a half hours the day before boarding a 10-12 hour flight back home. Seemed a bit masochistic for a day in the mountains!  Think I'll just chill in Kyoto instead.

Was more adventurous tonight with dinner.  I couldn't resist the sign!

 It felt like an inexpensive and  traditional joint with an eclectic range of Japanese diners . No English translation and the pictures didn't match the ones outside but I ate.

A day of discoveries and temples

(Note:  you can click on the photos for larger versions of the smaller ones.)

The hotel offers a Japanese breakfast, a great opportunity to taste new things while getting a solid food foundation for the day.

Catching a bus

I headed for the Bus station thinking I'd get Kyoto's version of a  hop-on hop off bus to orientate myself. Unfortunately it only runs on weekends and this was Monday. Not a disaster because organisation at the bus station was another example of Japanese efficiency and consideration.  It seems that in Kyoto at least, the Japanese recognise the value of a real person and don't skimp on manpower.  (Yay!!!)  Not only does the bus timetable screen include information in English (and Japanese) on what buses to catch for the main tourist attractions and where to catch them, there are  also English speaking attendants to make sure you understand. I hadn't worked out which sight to visit, but I bought a day's bus pass (500 yen - or about$5.50) and headed off towards Kinkaku-ju Temple. The bus signage was clear so  I followed others on via the back door and scored a seat, which was great as it got very crowded.  Announcements in Japanese and English tell you about the bus and the next stop and the information's also on a screen at the front. When you're getting close, they tell you where you are.  It was great looking out the window and realising there were interesting places other than the station near my hotel.

Kinkaku-ju Temple

On the way I got chatting to a friendly young tourist. Inbal was headed for the same temple.  I had been imagining chilling in a Zen garden.  Instead we joined a long line of Japanese tourists and school parties.  It didn't make for a spiritual atmosphere. I was amazed by the equipment for selfies and Inbal said they were everywhere in Korea. 

 She offered to take a photo of me so I gate-crashed these school children's photo.

Kikaku-ji Temple.  Japanese irises as they should be seen.

We did a quick whizz around and then parted company as I fancied a sit-down and there was a tea garden.  

Getting home again

The bus was a lot less crowded on the way back and I hopped on and off whenever I saw something I thought might be interesting.

There are smokers' areas everywhere.  This was in a park near the aquarium (which I didn't visit).

I hope to make it inside some time!

The mausoleum of Shinran Shonin (1173 - 1262), 

I  spotted a heap of monks heading my way and headed for a construction site to see what it held.

It was open and turned out to be the mausoleum of  the founder of Shin Buddhism and also the the mother temple of one of the largest Buddhist denominations in Japan. Far fewer people and most of them prayed when they got into the main building.  The tatami maps felt like a sprung floor, the wood was redolent of age and all in all it was a much more atmospheric and satisfying experience. Let that be a lesson to me!

Now that's what I call a drum! It was high overhead and had a battering ram to sound it.

Man feeding pigeons.

I decided to walk back to the hotel via the railway area and got lost.

Traditional Japanese guest house (ryokan)?  If I come back, I'll try to stay in one. They're mainly full as far as I can tell.

I was completely knackered when I ended up back at the place where I ate yesterday. I focussed a bit more on the menu.   Squid footware?  Horse hormone salt slack?  The mind boggles.  (I'm told hormones meams intestines.)

The hotel provides a map of recommended eateries. I went to Dining Mison, a two minute walk away, and ate a delicious meal of pork yakiniku, grilled veg and salad.  

 

Japan

Narita, Tokyo
Spending the first night in a hotel (Nikko Narita)  near the airport was a stroke of genius for a novice arriving in Japan after a long flight.  It was a great stress remover. Straight onto a shuttle bus, a  pleasant room with internet, a shop stocking the required connectors (for European to Japanese plugs) and a sumptuous breakfast went a long way towards setting me up for my journey to Kyoto.

One has to wonder why.

View from the breakfast room

Collection of the pocket wifi  was painless.  It's a shame that it keeps reverting to "out of range".  I can get it back but it takes about 10 minutes each time so I've decided that I'll abandon it.  It would be an expensive mistake if the process hadn't been worth its weight in gold for making me discover before I left home that the bank had blocked international transactions on all my cards!  

Validating the Japan rail pass was a little more time-consuming but still efficiently done.  They also reserved my seats to Kyoto.  Instead of changing at Tokyo for the Kyoto Bullet train, a lovely lady booked me to change at Shinagawa, the first or second stop on the Narita Express after Tokyo. She said that would be less hectic and it was very easy so she was right!  Half the train continued to Shinagawa from Tokyo and the other half went somewhere else so it was good to have someone who knew what they were doing.

Arrival in Kyoto
Continuing on my 'make it easy on yourself'' journey, I took a taxi to the hotel because I read somewhere it was a bit tricky to find.  Taxi ranks are somewhat different outside stations here!  Whoops! 

 I could understand why the taxi driver was not a happy chappy.  I don't know how long it takes them to get a turn!  I'm not entirely sorry for being so selfish all the same.  When you don't know where you're going, a short walk can turn into a long nightmare!  My room at the Almont Hotel overlooks the rooftops and has a nice Japanese feel to it.Should I go downstairs for a Japanese bath? Nah, not tonight.  Go out and explore a bit instead.  I'm definitely somewhere different.  I love the bird sounds the pedestrian crossings make. And they differentiate between north-south (kyu kyu) and east-west (cuckoo, cuckoo) (or vice versa).  (Sorry about layout.  Don't like this blog tool!)

From my window.

In the 'trip to the bath' gear.

Out in the world:reference point so I don't get lost .